This title cracks me up… Jeff said it to me as winewe were enjoying a refreshing glass of chilled white wine together after a long day of sightseeing.  I thought he'd said "Voulez-vous coucher avec moi, c'est soir?", which, if you know French (or know the song) you'll understand the implication.  Considering our children were sitting only a few feet from us I was slightly confused for a moment, until I remembered that the wine we were drinking was Pouilly Fuissé.  It's one of our favorite whites and is quite expensive back home, but it only costs 7€ here in the grocery store.  Quite humorous, that husband of mine.

Back to the day…  Today was hot!  The weather for our first few days was rainy, cloudy, and slight cool.  Not cold, but definitely not hot.  Today the sun was out, the sky was blue and we were very, very warm.  Beautiful!  My morning began with Julia tapping me on the shoulder to wake me up - she was up bright and early because I had mentioned the night before that it would be nice if we woke up early enough to actually enjoy a petit dejeuner at a café.  I wasn't keen to jump out of bed, and everyone else was sleeping, so I slowly roused myself and Julia and I headed out to the street to try and find a bakery and procure food for the family.  We wandered around for awhile and then saw a lady walking with baguettes - we went the opposite direction of her feeling like detectives.  Behold - a block later there was another lady with baguettes and only a few doors down there was a cute bakery.  Success!  Not only did they have our desired croissants and pain au chocolat, but they also had coffee.  I knew we would be the family heroes if we brought coffee and hot chocolate home, and thankfully my highschool French got us through.  We got the drinks to go (a emporter!) and came home like warriors of the street.  We gathered at our kitchen table and drank our hot drinks, made croissant crumbs and were generally very pleased with ourselves.

After showering and getting ourselves presentable we caught the metro and went to the Montmartre district, which incredibly we have never visited before.  It's the home of the Sacré-Coeur and we took the Stairmaster (a.k.a. the steps to the top) hoping it was cooler inside the church but either it was the sheer number of people inside, or the massive quantity of lit candles, but it was no cooler inside than out.  The view was nice but we were hoping to see the Eiffel Tower from there but we couldn't - I think you can if you pay to go up to the top of the dome but none of us were interested in doing that work-out.  Instead we headed back cemeterydown the hill on the other side into a very quiet and calm neighborhood where we had a delightful lunch.  The restaurant was well off the tourist path and felt very local; Chloë proclaimed it 'the best salad of my entire life!' after ordering a chicken ceasar salad with dressing a côte.  I went local and ordered a croque monsieur which was very good.  We continued down the streets with the goal of seeing the original Moulin Rouge (how scandalous!) as well as the Montmartre cemetery.  Along the way the kids were distracted by a cute clothing store where they each found some clothes (ugh - now a bag to carry!) and I was distracted by a store carrying fancy spices, oils and candies.  We left with some cherry-almond nougat that is so fresh that it feels like a ball of playdoh.  We did indeed see the Moulin Rouge (underwhelming) and then went a few blocks farther to the cemetery.  It was beautiful and calm, yet we didn't last long as there were various complaints -" It's hot!  There are too many bugs!  Why are there so many cats?  It's freaky here!"  It was all a bit of a buzzkill so off we went.  Not all moments of 'taking the kids along' are idyllic.

Back to the metro and on to the Tuileries Garden.  I feel badly for the children of Paris - all that pretty grass and yet you're not allowed to play on it.  There was a little boy who had escaped notice and was on it only to be yelled at and yanked off by his mother.  It looked so soft and inviting but don't think of setting foot on it!  Instead we were relegated to the sandy, gravel pathways that felt horrible in your sandals and made all parts of your lower body very dusty.  I didn't love it and don't feel the need to return.  The highlight, for me, was the little café where we stopped for a bowl of ice cream and a drink.  The servers were very friendly and polite but the service was horrible.  (We ruminated over the fact that they needed to work on their procedure manual!)  The kids ordered a bowl of ice cream with 3 different flavors and they brought it not once, but twice… with the wrong flavors.  The waiter was very understanding and sorry about it but it took forever - by the time the kids got it they gobbled it in 45 seconds and had to be stopped from licking the plate!  In the end they actually removed it from the bill which was nice and unexpected.

water_louvreOnwards toward home, which took us right through the middle of the Louvre.  We didn't feel the need to go inside as we have done that before, but the grounds around it are really nice.  We cooled our feet (and got off all of that irritating dust) in the beautiful ponds in the courtyard.  Many people were just chillaxing on this hot summer day with their feet in the cool water; beautiful surroundings on a beautiful day.

Ahh, finally sweet home away from home.  The kids relaxed in their room and us adults sat with a nice glass of wine and some cheese that smells like fart but tastes like heaven.  You can get addicted to this French life.  Tomorrow we plan on meeting up with Jeff's brother and his family (yay, the cousins are here!) and having a picnic somewhere with the Eiffel Tower in view.  They have come to Paris for a few days and we are excited to see them in a foreign environment.  (For those who don't know, after Paris we are in the Amsterdam area for 2 weeks celebrating the 40th anniversary of Jeff's parents and aunt and uncle; the entire family will be there for a mass celebration!)

And the last event of the night - dinner.  From the first night we arrived I was drawn towards a non-descript restaurant with a maroon awning.  I have no idea what it is called, and it certainly isn't fancy, but it's humbleness was appealing.  We went there for dinner and we were not disappointed!  For 17€ we had an appetizer, main, and dessert - all 3 were great.  I have never before had a ceasar salad with tomatoes, but whatever.  I also ordered the beef bourgignon - basically a fancy stew that I have fond memories of making with my French 30N class in highschool (along with coq au vin).  We had a cheap house wine (both in price and taste) but finished it with vielle poire.  Sounds good, right?  Um, no - it blew my head off!  I have no idea what it is but I thought it would be slightly sweet and pear-like but it was rocket fuel in a pretty glass.  Ayeyeyeye.

We decided to walk off dinner (and the vielle poire) and walked along the bank of the Seine.  They have a great summer beach set up on one side with sand, cafés, playgrounds, and anything else your summer heart could desire.  We intended to just stroll along but the pull of the sidewalk/sand café beckoned and we couldn't resist.  We had a nightcap on the banks of the Seine while playing a rousing game of telephone.  I have a feeling someone was cheating because the message never quite made it around the circle properly… not even once.  Was it the wine, the summer air, the excessive giddiness, or simply sabotage… we'll never know.

Now we're back home watching Olympic highlights while the kids get ready for bed and another Parisian day awaits.  Hard to complain about anything when life is this rosy...   Happy Wednesday!


The title of today's blog comes courtesy of a comment Jeff made as we randomly found ourselves at yet another landmark without even trying.  We set out today with not much in mind, and yet somehow ended up seeing many famous churches, squares and gardens without really looking at a map.  Granted, we were walking in the heart of Paris so perhaps we're not quite as 'lucky' as we think we are, because it's hard to walk more than a block without stumbling upon some historical monument!

 

crepeAfter pulling the children out of bed at 11:30 this morning (!!) we put on some comfy shoes and out we went - destination St-Germain-des-Prés.  I needed to fulfill a special request from my friend Andrew (shout out!) and bought a banana-nutella crêpe from a slightly cranky looking man… it was delicious, and slightly healthy due to the full banana inside.  (Right?)  We went inside the church of St-Germain-des-Prés which is the oldest in Paris - it began in AD 542 which is hard to wrap the mind around.  The inside has everything you'd expect from a historic Catholic church but you definitely get the feeling of OLD when you're inside.  We try and avoid line-ups  at all costs, and this church was surprisingly empty considering its importance and the fact that a tour bus was parked outside.  Maybe all the people in the bus got distracted by the crêpe man?

We happened upon St-Sulfice as we walked, and to be completely honest we had never heard of it.  The size and architecture was so impressive that we had to go inside, and I'm so glad that we did.  It's absolutely HUGE!  It's completely silent and calm inside, yet you can tell that a strong and loud voice would carry very stained_glasseasily.  These types of places are so amazing in how you can totally feel the history, and it sounds nuts but I swear I could hear the faint chanting of monks.  No one else in my family could, but perhaps I was hearing an echo from hundreds of years ago?  Okay, that does sound crazy, but I heard it!  To add extra excitement to this story I researched the church when we got home; if you read the DaVinci Code you may remember that this is the church that it claims is associated with the Priory of Sion (a secret society) and is built on top of an ancient temple.  Who knows if it's true, but it's a pretty interesting place nonetheless.

Next destination:  Luxembourg Gardens.  This is our third trip to Paris and somehow we had never made it to this very famous landmark.  Wow, it's huge!  It was made in 1612 for the widow of Henri IV (Marie de' Medici) and is comprised of 64 acres of beautiful gardens, tennis courts, boules courts, playgrounds, ponds, etc.  We barely scratched the surface of it as we were in search of lunch, but we definitely plan on going back there before we leave.  (Interesting historical note - when Marie's son Louis XIII was 16, he banished her from Paris because of her patronizing control.  She was allowed back two years later after acknowledging that her power was diminished.  Eventually (due to many things deemed important at the time) she was convicted of high treason and her possessions were seized - including the Palais du Luxembourg and it's impressive gardens.  The poor old lady wasn't welcome anywhere anymore and it makes me glad that I wasn't alive during that very confusing time!)

 

We found a nice café for lunch then continued on to the Panthéon.  There was a huge line-up to get in, so we just sat on the steps in the sun and did a little people watching.  Our butts soon fell asleep due to the hard marble so we got up and headed right.  (No destination, just wandering).  We ended up in the Latin Quarter which was very busy, but not unpleasantly so.  The girls bought a few souvenirs and then we were very excited to find a gelato shop that reminded us of the one we went to is Cassis, France 3 years ago.  We have dreamt about that place many times since then because they shaped your gelato into a beautiful flower with each petal a different flavor.  Lo and behold - it exists in the Latin Quarter as well!  Very pleasing.  We went in the general direction of home, and there in front of us was Notre Dame!  It's amazing how much you can accomplish when you don't even try!  We watched people play with the pigeons (for real), ate our gelato, and feeling very pleased with ourselves went home for a well deserved rest.

 

fondueAfter a few hours of Olympic watching for the adults and iPod watching for the kids, we were suitably refreshed.  Dinner beckoned and we decided to head back to the Latin Quarter for the fondue and raclettes that we saw advertised everywhere.  We settled in for a great meal of escargots, cheese fondue, beef fondue, a potato raclette, and we of course capped it off with chocolate fondue.  Everything was phenomenal, and the kids had a great time dipping and cooking and being in charge of their own meal.  (And the chocolate was amazing… dark and rich and not too sweet.)  We strolled home and are happily content to rest and prepare for another full day tomorrow.

 

Another fabulous day!

ask-kira

 photo gallery

 

me_madridAbout Me

Blog Archive

Powered by mod LCA